Creative Director Pheobe Philo left us speechless at the Celine Fall Winter 2017 runway. Masculine suits, modern loose-fit outfits, and brown trenches, draped dresses and exotic prints; maintaining the signature style but adding a revolutionary dimension.
We’re loving the new modern vibes set ablaze on the runway, the eccentric boots and the wrinkled trench-coats all scream modern aesthetic for the experimental with a desire of self-expression.
Large canvas totes are in this season and Celine showed us how well it goes paired with both structured outfits and quirky loose ones too.
Words by Rawan Qabazard
Strolling through history in search of the ornamental and the structural, Spuri-Zampetti draws inspiration from the first impression that Paris leaves on any visitor: a marvel of opulent architecture, where past and present live under the golden glow of chandeliers and streetlights.
Structure opens the way, with precisely draped coats cocooning the body as an embrace of lush, tactile fabrics. Immaculate white forms a strong base from which classic tweeds and patterned woollens progress to the quiet luxuriance of chiné double face. After all, it is the nonchalant drape of a shawl that sparked these trompel’oeil propositions. The richness of the custom designed material bestows a contemporary spin to a faux-classic silhouette: intrinsically Parisian but definitely looking forward.
Empowerment is the final stage of the journey. Playing on the idea of hiding in plain sight, the quintessential Parisian rises to any occasion. The curves of Chantilly lace echo the curls of ornate Napoleonic architecture, as she swings into view. Through the use of plissé, heritage motifs become graphic slices, and fan out to reveal insertions of unusual materials. Knitted sparkles. Delicate fringing lends movement to glittering jacquards, echoing the playful feathers that have been intermingled in the metallic thread of laces. Gilding the edges or shimmering with every movement, this visible twist on invisibility meshes.
Femininity emerges soon after, as the woman abandons her coat to reveal herself, a softer counter-point to style as a structure. Lingerie, as much an art as a craft, opens a dialogue with history by revisiting its vision of the female form. The corset, once used to constrain now becomes playful and liberating in technical materials. Construction is highlighted by the essential nature of the palette, hinting at the toile that perjures their existence. The futurism of molded neoprene meets the luster of velvet on a strict egalitarian footing: romantic meets minimalism and both become effortless.