Uniforms, utilitarian clothes, normative dress, including straight jackets, were included in the Gucci SS20 fashion show as the most extreme version of a uniform dictated by society and those who control it. This power prescribes social norms, classifying and curbing identity. The Creative Director’s antidote is seen in the Gucci Spring Summer 2020 lineup of 89 looks, he has designed a collection that conveys fashion as a way to allow people to walk through fields of possibilities, cultivate beauty, make diversity sacrosanct and celebrate the self in expression and identity.

Creating an antidote to normative standardization of bio-politics can’t mean imposing a countermanding order to order. It doesn’t mean getting rid of rules imposing other rules. Fashion, instead, has another function: to let people walk through fields of possibilities, giving hints and evoking openness, cultivating promises of beauty, offering testimonies and prophecies, feeding indispensable self- determination skills. That’s the only way fashion can be constitutively resistant: allowing each and everyone to creatively build their own place in the world, beyond any normativity imposed from the outside. Fashion as a space of poetical self-affirmation where the desire of the self can shine. 

WE SAY: “Gucci was very daring and artistic. The show opened with models strapped into the now infamous straightjackets – moving from one side to the other as if they are entering a mental institution… and they walked out dressed in their Gucci outfits. It was a cool concept”.