We love a fresh reason to get out and shop – and the opening of a new Boss store in Kuwait gives us just the right amount of reason we need to get out and explore. This season as it happens, sees a fresh richness of style in the collection. Long-time fans of Boss, we don’t need an excuse to don a suit whatever the occasion. Although some may baulk at pulling on a jacket with matching trousers, we contend this is look that never goes out of style.
Instead of mid-aughts exec, the suiting is broader of shoulder, single vented, with mid-width lapels, and played against double-pleated pants cuffed, low-rise, and with plenty of break.
Now under Ingo Wilts, a long-term servant of the house who recently returned for his third tour of duty, Wilts has accurately observed the appropriate silhouette for 2017.
Yet this suiting is anything but conventional. For not only does it utilize fabrics of a provocatively anachronistic heaviness, boiled cashmere included, it mixes them with rough (but luxuriously so) wearable declarations of utilitarianism.
Windbreakers, half-zipped, with an unorthodox arrangement of three billow pockets at the chest, are layered under faux-Guernsey knits. There are some seriously analog hobnailed shoes, with external tongues Wilts had riffed on from a vintage buy.
Duffles, either exceptionally low or exceptionally high, are presented with metal fastenings and leather beltlets instead of togs. Hoodies are bluntly silhouetted yet sophisticatedly rendered in reverse shearling with goat hoods.
Hugo Boss is a big, hundreds of millions’ big, company. So it is all the more interesting to see how assertively Boss flirts with heaviness and roughness. Each look is fitted to its model and garlanded with a label bearing the label’s signature. This is a collection that tries to say the Boss man does not roll off the production line identically outfitted. He has texture and depth, plus a sense of the then that makes his sense of the now make sense.