To celebrate the close of its fifth decade, Etro brings together 50 years of collected love with a massive installation in Milan’s Palazzo del Ghiaccio under the theme Dandy Detour – a deep dive into the intimate life of the Etro Man.

The Dandy invites you into his home on a journey through his private life and collected memories. The world-wise Dandy is a curious and complicated man. He’s a fervent traveller with a strong connection to his roots: a bubbling mix between David Bowie and Bruce Chatwin with a splash of Epicuro thrown in for good measure. He’s a character that encapsulates the true Etro man: wild, but intellectual; soft-spoken but bold.

Materials for Fall are characteristically decadent, with an intense focus on the translation of tapestry and carpet-making methods to the garment, resulting in superlatively rich textiles. Block-like prints can be traced back to Navajo weaving, Persian textiles and Celtic tapestries are reimagined on wool coats or evaporate, degradé-like on parkas and bomber jackets. Jacquard is used heavily: on graphic wool blazers and long coats adorned with winding foliage.

The symbolic vocabulary of Etro is carried throughout the collection: the iconic paisley print is as present as ever, embroidered wing-like on the back of wool coats, swirling psychedelically on an acid orange velvet bomber. Tenets of classic British tailoring are referenced, then quickly dismantled, like on the edges of Tattersall check trenches, which are left raw and undone. Colours move across the spectrum, but remain rich and vibrant: from midnight blues, to royal purples, fuchsia and amethyst. Kelly green sits with lime and turquoise; subtler shades of cream and pale brown alongside vibrant canola yellow, burnt orange and rose.

Silhouettes this season are subtly exaggerated. Wool trousers, cut wide and billowing, sit high on the waist with substantial pleating. The rounded shoulders of velvet and Alpaca blazers softly shrug. The arms of cable knit cashmere sweaters are lengthened slightly to give a lived-in grunge-era feeling, while turtlenecks reach up to the jawline. In the typical Dandy style, socks are colourful and perfectly match outfits. Footwear this season includes worn-in leather work boots, embroidered corduroy loafers and calf skin desert boots with wide buckles and accessories are subtle.